El lado artistico y creativo de Cusco

The grown-up gapper: Cusco's creative side
Ruth Holliday discovers Cusco's bohemian quarter among the galleries and museums of San Blas.

By Ruth HollidayLast Updated: 12:53PM BST 01 Sep 2008


The climb to San Blas is steep, but ultimately worthwhile

The Cusco school of painting flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries, combining Byzantine and Spanish influences with Inca imagery

A recurring image is of the Virgin - her image merged with the Inca Pachamama

The 'arcabucero' combines the Catholic archangel with the Inca's bird-like guardian

Ruth is treated to an impromptu drumming demonstration
Cusco is crawling with artists. In a city where 70 per cent of the population makes its living from tourism, local arts and crafts are big business. In the central Plaza de Armas, dozens of young students hawk their prints to the gringo crowds.
I decide to devote a couple of days to deciphering Cusco art. On such a mission there is only one place to head - San Blas - the hilltop district that's home to the cool and creative of the city.
It's an experience that many short-stay tourists may miss. Indeed it's easy to be dissuaded by the steep climb from Cusco's centre. But as you edge up the narrow Inca-built streets, above the smog-line of diesel fumes - the wheezing becomes worthwhile.
Clusters of tiny galleries glimmer in the archways. Art is everywhere here - it covers the walls of cafes, bars and restaurants - and in the Plaza San Blas street performers drum, dance and diabolo just for fun.
My first stop is a gallery on the Cuesta San Blas where owner Fredo instructs me in basics of the Cusco school of painting. This flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries, combining Byzantine and Spanish influences with Inca imagery.
As none of these artistic forerunners were averse to a generous splodge of gilding, the interior of Fredo's gallery is all that glisters. The recurring image on these walls is of the Virgin - her image merged with the Inca Pachamama (earth mother) so that she is obliged to nurse the holy infant with one arm while balancing baskets of farm produce with the other.
The other star of the Cusco school is the “arcabucero” - a kick-ass hybrid that combines the Catholic archangel with the Inca's bird-like immortal guardian. The arcabucero's job is to protect homes and families, armed conveniently with an enormous antique shotgun.
The paintings in Fredo's gallery are all modern-day reproductions, but the layers of oil, acrylic and gilt are as intricate as any original. Each work is created by four artists working in sequence - one on the background, one on faces and the others on decoration and gilding.
There are more arcabuceros to be found in San Blas Plaza - in the miniscule museum devoted to 20th century artist Hilario Mendivil. A narrow passageway from the square opens out onto the courtyard of his former home, guarded by two eight-foot arcabucero statues.
These are the gigantic daddies of the doll-size angels and virgins Mendivil spent his life sculpting. They take their inspiration from the Cusco school, but differ in one surreal respect - elongated necks in homage to that great Peruvian lifesaver - the llama.
Out in the square there are living artists to be found. After four weeks of Spanish lessons, I'm fluent enough to hear one young performer's views on Peruvian music.
"We all play Andean instruments," he tells me. "But we use them to create a fusion sound with bits of funk, African and jazz." I'm invited to their next gig on Saturday - and treated to an impromptu drumming demonstration that sets the San Blas hills ringing.
I feel closer to Cusco after glimpsing its creative side. I join the young artists absorbing the sun on the plaza steps and feel a rush of bohemianism.
Between the angels and virgins, llamas, dancers and drummers San Blas condenses more of the city's culture than the commercial centre and all its cathedrals combined. Tomorrow I'll probably be wheezing my way up here for more.

Link: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hubs/gapyear/2661257/The-grown-up-gapper-Cuscos-creative-side.html