Entradas
"It's simply market growth that has prompted us to boost sales"
Mario Munailla
Marketing manager/Aceros Arequipa
By Pablo Gaete
Peru has been growing at a breakneck pace in recent years and its GDP is expected to expand faster in 2008 than the economy of any other country in Latin America.
In addition to growth, the country has infrastructure and construction projects lined up along with an extraordinary housing boom that has prompted ever-increasing demand for steel products.
Aceros Arequipa is reaping the benefits of this boom as it is a leader in the Peruvian market, along with Siderperú.
In this interview, BNamericas spoke with Mario Munailla, Aceros Arequipa's marketing manager, who discussed the current status of Peru's market and where it's headed, as well as the company's own outlook for growth.
BNamericas: Aceros Arequipa's results in the first quarter were excellent compared to the same period of 2007. Profits grew 218% to 58.6mn soles [US$20.5mn], revenues were up 53% to 489mn soles and sales increased 35% to 195,000t. How much of these results is due to higher output and how much is due to steel prices?
Munailla: Production has increased by quite a bit because of an expansion that wrapped up last year that took output from 400,000t/y to 540,000t/y of long products.
The expansion was designed to keep growing along with the market, which registered much higher demand in 2007.
BNamericas: What is expected of the market and for Aceros Arequipa's sales this year?
Munailla: Demand is forecast to be higher than our production this year so we're having to supplement our own output with imports that make up around 20% of physical sales.
Market growth has been bypassing our production every year for the past seven years so we have undergone an expansion project every year.
BNamericas: Has the company's market share increased during that time or was it just market growth prompting higher sales?
Munailla: Our market share leveled out a couple of years ago. It's simply market growth that has prompted us to boost sales on existing product lines. We have also incorporated new lines.
BNamericas: Has the company been successful in transferring the higher cost of raw materials to its products?
Munailla: The thing that worries me about growth is the rising cost of our products, which we have had to increase because of the higher cost of our raw materials.
It is true that last year and this year some major private investment projects have been launched in the areas of mining and commerce, where the impact of high prices for our products is much less than in housing.
However, demand from those two sectors is still not as considerable as in housing.
BNamericas: What portion of your sales goes to the housing sector?
Munailla: Housing easily consumes about 65% of demand in the country and our [sales are] relatively in line with that.
We probably have more of a share in the housing market than Siderperú, which sells more crushing balls to the mining sector.
BNamericas: Your company isn't involved in that business?
Munailla: Yes, but very little. We only entered that market a couple of years ago. We are more focused on construction and we are trying harder to gain more of a presence in the metal-mechanics industry.
In fact, we're trying to diversify outside of the construction sector.
BNamericas: Why?
Munailla: Peru's coffers are full. There is plenty of money, but what's missing is the ability to employ those resources efficiently so they can be transformed into infrastructure projects.
However, in recent months we have seen higher demand from municipalities for infrastructure projects.
But at the same time, our principal market is housing and, on that market, over half of our demand is for do-it-yourself construction jobs which are informal projects built by residents living in the very structures being built.
Formal construction for buildings and other types of structures is still hovering around 25% of Peru's entire construction market.
BNamericas: There has been talk about a real estate boom in Peru right now. Why is the do-it-yourself type of construction still so important?
Munailla: Construction requires a lot of physical labor and this boom in real estate construction means an abundance of construction workers. Construction workers have more regular work now, whereas they did not before. But the majority of them haven't even established their own domestic housing situation.
If a worker has money that he didn't have before, the first thing he is going to do is invest in his home, but he probably doesn't have full access to the loan market so he has no other option but to build his house gradually and informally.
There are others, like young people who live with their families or workers who did not previously have stable employment but now do, that could get access to loans but that would mean waiting to establish job history before getting a loan. Since they don't want to wait, they are also candidates for do-it-yourself types of construction.
BNamericas: But they're still your clients.
Munailla: Of course. But if steel supply did not have to be so focused on do-it-yourself construction products, I think it would drive growth in the country more efficiently.
BNamericas: How has the formal construction sector been performing in terms of housing or other types of construction?
Munailla: The sector grew 16% last year and we are expecting about 20% this year.
BNamericas: It appears that the financial crisis affecting the rest of the world isn't very applicable in Peru.
Munailla: No. Last year, Peru grew 9% and this year it's not likely that growth will be less than 8%.
And public investment is still much smaller that private because of the inefficiency of state organizations for resource management. It's difficult for a country that has been managing scarcity and poverty for so many years to learn how to be wealthy.
BNamericas: But even then, performance at Aceros Arequipa has improved consistently because of growth in the country and this year the company is expanding yet again. Can you give some details about that?
Munailla: It's a project that we hope to have ready by the first quarter of 2010.
BNamericas: Wasn't it previously scheduled for the last quarter of 2009?
Munailla: Originally yes, but now we expect it to be 1Q10 because of the time providers need, since they are in high demand. We plan to invest around US$280mn to reach capacity of more or less 1Mt/y with expansions - first at our Pisco plant and also at the Arequipa operation.
BNamericas: Does the company plan to expand beyond 1Mt/y at a later date?
Munailla: Yes, of course. But in order to give specific figures, we would need logistics and market studies, which are underway.
BNamericas: In terms of the market and the tremendous growth in the country, do you feel there is any chance of a third participant entering the market and growing along with Aceros Arequipa and Siderperú, like Ternium or ArcelorMittal?
Munailla: We are familiar with them and they have always expressed interest in entering Peru through one of the two current players.
BNamericas: Since Siderperú is controlled by Brazilian company Gerdau, does that mean Gerdau might also be interested in Aceros Arequipa?
Munailla: The way things are in the steel industry around the world right now, I don't think there is any independent company like us that hasn't received a knock on the door. So far, we have always said no.
ABOUT THE COMPANY:In terms of production, Aceros Arequipa has been one of Peru's two largest steelmakers for over 40 years with plants in Pisco and Arequipa.
The company trades on the Lima stock exchange.
By Pablo Gaete
martes, 8 de julio de 2008
domingo, 6 de julio de 2008
Descubren tumba Inca noble
Peru discovers 'noble tomb'
Archaeologists have discovered an intact tomb near Peru's northern coast of a pre-Incan leader who lived 1,600 years ago, the group's lead scientist has aid.
The well-preserved tomb, which contained human remains, ceramics and jewelry, could help solve mysteries about Peru's ancient Moche Indian culture.
The findings were dug up in the province of Lambayeque, about 770 km north of Lima, where the Moche culture thrived between 100 BC and AD 600.
Achaeologists said the tomb, called Huaca del Pueblo, may be related to other important Moche ruins in the area, including the famed Lords of Sipan tomb that was discovered in the same area of Peru two decades ago.
Both sites include tombs built for prominent figures of the Moche civilisation, which is characterised by complex construction techniques and works of art.
Nobility
The team's findings include a body wearing gold-coloured copper funeral masks and wrapped in reed, as well as gold-coloured copper crowns, earrings, nose rings, necklaces of silver, seashells and technologically sophisticated objects made from copper.
The researchers also found remains of a young man nearby and animals thought to be alpacas or llamas.
The remains most likely belonged to nobility, Walter Alva, famed Peruvian archaeologist who discovered the Sipan site, said.
"Some elements like scepters and crowns of gold are those that identify people of the highest hierarchical level," he said.
Alva said part of the excavation is going to conclude in July, but the team hopes to resume work in December.
Source: Agencies
Archaeologists have discovered an intact tomb near Peru's northern coast of a pre-Incan leader who lived 1,600 years ago, the group's lead scientist has aid.
The well-preserved tomb, which contained human remains, ceramics and jewelry, could help solve mysteries about Peru's ancient Moche Indian culture.
The findings were dug up in the province of Lambayeque, about 770 km north of Lima, where the Moche culture thrived between 100 BC and AD 600.
Achaeologists said the tomb, called Huaca del Pueblo, may be related to other important Moche ruins in the area, including the famed Lords of Sipan tomb that was discovered in the same area of Peru two decades ago.
Both sites include tombs built for prominent figures of the Moche civilisation, which is characterised by complex construction techniques and works of art.
Nobility
The team's findings include a body wearing gold-coloured copper funeral masks and wrapped in reed, as well as gold-coloured copper crowns, earrings, nose rings, necklaces of silver, seashells and technologically sophisticated objects made from copper.
The researchers also found remains of a young man nearby and animals thought to be alpacas or llamas.
The remains most likely belonged to nobility, Walter Alva, famed Peruvian archaeologist who discovered the Sipan site, said.
"Some elements like scepters and crowns of gold are those that identify people of the highest hierarchical level," he said.
Alva said part of the excavation is going to conclude in July, but the team hopes to resume work in December.
Source: Agencies
Cocina peruana atrae Turistas de alto calibre
Travel and Tourism
4 July, 2008 [ 18:30 ]
Peru's fine cuisine attracts high end tourists to Cusco
Although Cusco is one of the most enigmatic and attractive cities in South America thanks to its archaeological remains, in the last year the gastronomic offer for luxury tourists who arrive at this Peruvian territory has turned sophisticated, turning into one of the most important elements of getting inbound tourism.For this reason, it is not strange that high purchasing power visitors have surrounded before the delicious gastronomic offer presented in many five star hotels and the most well-known restaurants, which are located in this place called "World’s Navel ". Tourist can never refuse the unimaginable flavors.Three or four years ago, luxury tourists only came to Cusco to visit Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán, Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, among other archaeological sites of the city.“Now there exists a sector that comes exclusively to try the variety of dishes and drinks which are offered in different the tourist zones of this province", stated the kitchen chef at Casa Andina Private Collection Valle Sagrado, José Pareja.
News source: ANDINA
4 July, 2008 [ 18:30 ]
Peru's fine cuisine attracts high end tourists to Cusco
Although Cusco is one of the most enigmatic and attractive cities in South America thanks to its archaeological remains, in the last year the gastronomic offer for luxury tourists who arrive at this Peruvian territory has turned sophisticated, turning into one of the most important elements of getting inbound tourism.For this reason, it is not strange that high purchasing power visitors have surrounded before the delicious gastronomic offer presented in many five star hotels and the most well-known restaurants, which are located in this place called "World’s Navel ". Tourist can never refuse the unimaginable flavors.Three or four years ago, luxury tourists only came to Cusco to visit Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán, Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, among other archaeological sites of the city.“Now there exists a sector that comes exclusively to try the variety of dishes and drinks which are offered in different the tourist zones of this province", stated the kitchen chef at Casa Andina Private Collection Valle Sagrado, José Pareja.
News source: ANDINA
viernes, 4 de julio de 2008
Pisco Sour entre los 10 mejores tragos en New York
SALUD!
10 BEST SUMMER COCKTAILS AND THE PLACES TO DRINK 'EM
By GRACE BASTIDAS
Posted: 12:00 am
July 2, 2008
Summertime is synonymous with salt-rimmed margaritas, minty mojitos and other Latin cocktails. Not only are they refreshing and positively thirst quenching, but just one sip transports imbibers to azure beaches where the only thing you have to worry about is your tan. Here are a few spots, all themed around a different drink, to get that vacation fix while staying close to home:
1.) Michelada
After a serious night out, sidle up to Bonita early the next morning. The cute Fort Greene eatery concocts a well-seasoned Michelada ($6) that'll kick-start your day. Touted as the Mexican Bloody Mary, it has beer, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, salsa picante, black pepper and a salted rim. And at Bonita, you can add your cerveza of choice (Dos Equis, Tecate, Negra Modelo, Pacifico, Corona or Sol). Pair it with an order of saucy Huevos Rancheros ($7.50) and you'll feel ready to face the world in no time.
243 Dekalb Ave., between Clermont and Vanderbilt avenues, 718-622-5300.
2.) Daiquiri
Ernest Hemingway's favorite cocktail, the daiquiri, was perfected at El Floridita, an classic bar in Havana, Cuba where Papa had his own stool. In Manhattan, Bobo's whitewashed rooftop garden is the next-best setting for such a sophisticated drink. Owner Carlos Suarez, whose father is Cuban, has even christened their version "Hemingway Daiquiri" (Brugal rum, lime juice, maraschino liqueur and grapefruit juice; $13). It arrives at your table in a lovely glass garnished with a floating lime wheel.
181 W. 10th St., at West Fourth Street. (212) 488-2626.
3.) Mojito
Mexican mixologist Artemio Vasquez (formerly of Pegu Club) takes a lot of pride in the bar menu at Yerba Buena. The restaurant's signature Cuban mojito ($11) demonstrates his attention to even the tiniest of details. It is made with Bacardi 8, homemade demarara (sugar cane) syrup, natural lime juice and fresh mint. Before serving, he strains out the leaves to avoid that dreadful spinach-teeth look and gently plops whole ice cubes - instead of crushed ice - into a glass so that his creation doesn't get watered down quickly.
23 Ave. A, between First and Second avenues. (212) 529-2919.
4.) Mamajuana
Guys that need an extra boost in the love department may want to head to Washington Heights' Mamajuana Café, where the legendary Mamajuana "miracle potion" (rum, wine, honey, spices, herbs; $8) is considered an aphrodisiac and a natural form of Viagra by Dominicans. If that doesn't do the trick, surely the romantic atmosphere (wall of candles, exposed brick, Taino artifacts) has got to help.
247 Dyckman St., between Seaman and Payson. (212) 304-0140.
5.) Sangria
La Nacional has an old-country feel that's evidenced by the white-haired Spaniards that sit around here in the evenings chatting about fútbol and politics. Part member's club and part restaurant, it serves as a meeting spot for expats yearning for a taste of home. But you don't have to be from Seville (or even a member) to order a carafe of sangría (red wine, rosé, muscat, sugar, sprite and fruits; $18–$26) in the rustic dining room. Along with the rest of the offerings on the menu, the fruity wine can be enjoyed by all nationalities.
239 West 14th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues. (212) 243-9308.
6.) Pisco Sour
Chileans and Peruvians have always quarreled over the origin of the brandy drink Pisco. And after one taste of Panca's Pisco Sour (Pisco Lovera, lemon juice, homemade syrup, a pasteurized egg white and Angostura bitters; $9), we're siding with the Incas. The Peruvian restaurant's version is fortifying, frothy and strikes the right balance between tangy and sweet. It's a great aperitif, especially at Panca, where the ceviches are all winners.
92 Seventh Ave. South, between Grove and Barrow streets. (212) 488-3900.
7.) Piña Colada
If you like piña coladas, you probably love live music. There's something about the Puerto Rican (or is it Cuban?) drink that makes you want to start a conga line. Rink Bar at Rockefeller Center offers both during July and August, when the gilded statue of Prometheus oversees an after-work crowd re-energized by rum and salsa bands. Their 12-ounce colada ($12) is served frozen with Cruzan rum, pineapple juice and coconut cream. It goes down easy so watch your step.
Rockefeller Center, Fifth Ave. between 49th and 50th streets. (212) 332-7620.
8.) Margarita
Drinking with kids in tow may seem a little irresponsible unless you're at Elora's, a no-frills Mexican eatery that's been holding down the same Park Slope corner for 15 years. The margaritas (triple sec, lemon x and well tequila; $8) here are gentle enough for mommies heading to a play-date in nearby Prospect Park. Served in diminutive glasses with free nachos and salsa, they may not be the best of the bunch but they offer a welcome respite in between diaper duty.
272 Prospect Park West, at 17th Street, Brooklyn. (718) 788-6190.
9.) Caipirinha
New York's Little Brazil Street (a/k/a 46th Street) seems really far from Rio until you enter Via Brazil: The restaurant's floor mimics the sidewalks of Copacabana beach; everyone from waiters to the bartenders has that melodic Portuguese accent; and live music fills the air from Wednesday through Saturday. The caipirinha ($9) is a must if you want complete the vibe. Prepared with lime, sugar and Pitú cachaça, it passes the authenticity test.
34 West 46th St. between Fifth and Sixth avenues. (347) 706-3344.
10.) Latin beers
You can pick up a six-pack at the bodega and slowly drink yourself into a stupor while watching TV or you can go out. Paladar serves practically all of the cocktails in this survey and a range of beers ($5.50 for each) that travels all around Latin America: Brahma from Brazil, Quilmes from Argentina, Presidente from the Dominican Republic, Aguila from Colombia and a slew of Mexican cervezas. Try and find a seat by the always packed bar and begin your tour around the world. If hunger strikes, chef Aaron Sanchez is a pro.
161 Ludlow St., between Stanton and East Houston streets. (212) 473-3535.
10 BEST SUMMER COCKTAILS AND THE PLACES TO DRINK 'EM
By GRACE BASTIDAS
Posted: 12:00 am
July 2, 2008
Summertime is synonymous with salt-rimmed margaritas, minty mojitos and other Latin cocktails. Not only are they refreshing and positively thirst quenching, but just one sip transports imbibers to azure beaches where the only thing you have to worry about is your tan. Here are a few spots, all themed around a different drink, to get that vacation fix while staying close to home:
1.) Michelada
After a serious night out, sidle up to Bonita early the next morning. The cute Fort Greene eatery concocts a well-seasoned Michelada ($6) that'll kick-start your day. Touted as the Mexican Bloody Mary, it has beer, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, salsa picante, black pepper and a salted rim. And at Bonita, you can add your cerveza of choice (Dos Equis, Tecate, Negra Modelo, Pacifico, Corona or Sol). Pair it with an order of saucy Huevos Rancheros ($7.50) and you'll feel ready to face the world in no time.
243 Dekalb Ave., between Clermont and Vanderbilt avenues, 718-622-5300.
2.) Daiquiri
Ernest Hemingway's favorite cocktail, the daiquiri, was perfected at El Floridita, an classic bar in Havana, Cuba where Papa had his own stool. In Manhattan, Bobo's whitewashed rooftop garden is the next-best setting for such a sophisticated drink. Owner Carlos Suarez, whose father is Cuban, has even christened their version "Hemingway Daiquiri" (Brugal rum, lime juice, maraschino liqueur and grapefruit juice; $13). It arrives at your table in a lovely glass garnished with a floating lime wheel.
181 W. 10th St., at West Fourth Street. (212) 488-2626.
3.) Mojito
Mexican mixologist Artemio Vasquez (formerly of Pegu Club) takes a lot of pride in the bar menu at Yerba Buena. The restaurant's signature Cuban mojito ($11) demonstrates his attention to even the tiniest of details. It is made with Bacardi 8, homemade demarara (sugar cane) syrup, natural lime juice and fresh mint. Before serving, he strains out the leaves to avoid that dreadful spinach-teeth look and gently plops whole ice cubes - instead of crushed ice - into a glass so that his creation doesn't get watered down quickly.
23 Ave. A, between First and Second avenues. (212) 529-2919.
4.) Mamajuana
Guys that need an extra boost in the love department may want to head to Washington Heights' Mamajuana Café, where the legendary Mamajuana "miracle potion" (rum, wine, honey, spices, herbs; $8) is considered an aphrodisiac and a natural form of Viagra by Dominicans. If that doesn't do the trick, surely the romantic atmosphere (wall of candles, exposed brick, Taino artifacts) has got to help.
247 Dyckman St., between Seaman and Payson. (212) 304-0140.
5.) Sangria
La Nacional has an old-country feel that's evidenced by the white-haired Spaniards that sit around here in the evenings chatting about fútbol and politics. Part member's club and part restaurant, it serves as a meeting spot for expats yearning for a taste of home. But you don't have to be from Seville (or even a member) to order a carafe of sangría (red wine, rosé, muscat, sugar, sprite and fruits; $18–$26) in the rustic dining room. Along with the rest of the offerings on the menu, the fruity wine can be enjoyed by all nationalities.
239 West 14th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues. (212) 243-9308.
6.) Pisco Sour
Chileans and Peruvians have always quarreled over the origin of the brandy drink Pisco. And after one taste of Panca's Pisco Sour (Pisco Lovera, lemon juice, homemade syrup, a pasteurized egg white and Angostura bitters; $9), we're siding with the Incas. The Peruvian restaurant's version is fortifying, frothy and strikes the right balance between tangy and sweet. It's a great aperitif, especially at Panca, where the ceviches are all winners.
92 Seventh Ave. South, between Grove and Barrow streets. (212) 488-3900.
7.) Piña Colada
If you like piña coladas, you probably love live music. There's something about the Puerto Rican (or is it Cuban?) drink that makes you want to start a conga line. Rink Bar at Rockefeller Center offers both during July and August, when the gilded statue of Prometheus oversees an after-work crowd re-energized by rum and salsa bands. Their 12-ounce colada ($12) is served frozen with Cruzan rum, pineapple juice and coconut cream. It goes down easy so watch your step.
Rockefeller Center, Fifth Ave. between 49th and 50th streets. (212) 332-7620.
8.) Margarita
Drinking with kids in tow may seem a little irresponsible unless you're at Elora's, a no-frills Mexican eatery that's been holding down the same Park Slope corner for 15 years. The margaritas (triple sec, lemon x and well tequila; $8) here are gentle enough for mommies heading to a play-date in nearby Prospect Park. Served in diminutive glasses with free nachos and salsa, they may not be the best of the bunch but they offer a welcome respite in between diaper duty.
272 Prospect Park West, at 17th Street, Brooklyn. (718) 788-6190.
9.) Caipirinha
New York's Little Brazil Street (a/k/a 46th Street) seems really far from Rio until you enter Via Brazil: The restaurant's floor mimics the sidewalks of Copacabana beach; everyone from waiters to the bartenders has that melodic Portuguese accent; and live music fills the air from Wednesday through Saturday. The caipirinha ($9) is a must if you want complete the vibe. Prepared with lime, sugar and Pitú cachaça, it passes the authenticity test.
34 West 46th St. between Fifth and Sixth avenues. (347) 706-3344.
10.) Latin beers
You can pick up a six-pack at the bodega and slowly drink yourself into a stupor while watching TV or you can go out. Paladar serves practically all of the cocktails in this survey and a range of beers ($5.50 for each) that travels all around Latin America: Brahma from Brazil, Quilmes from Argentina, Presidente from the Dominican Republic, Aguila from Colombia and a slew of Mexican cervezas. Try and find a seat by the always packed bar and begin your tour around the world. If hunger strikes, chef Aaron Sanchez is a pro.
161 Ludlow St., between Stanton and East Houston streets. (212) 473-3535.
jueves, 3 de julio de 2008
Givenchi se inspira en MachuPicchu y Peru en moda de temporada de invierno
Givenchy displays a raw romanticism
Riccardo Tisci takes his collection to the high heartland of Peru
By Suzy Menkes
Published: July 2, 2008
PARIS: It is dark and elusive, but the raw romanticism of Riccardo Tisci is starting to create a powerful, modern image for the house of Givenchy.
For the winter season, the designer took his collection into the high heartland of Peru, where he created a landscape of Machu Picchu colors like tobacco brown and stony beige. Hefty cuffed shorts, leather bomber jackets, ethnic patterned alpaca sweaters and gaucho boots with a chap at the front seemed a long way from the sophistication of the City of Light.
Yet, take away the ethnic focus and there were intriguing things going on, especially in the fabrics. Tisci's idea of a waxed leather coat lined with alpaca fur was only the start of this mountain trail through high and low materials, as he melded denim, silk jersey, chinchilla and cashmere. The melange could be deciphered only from the program notes, so that some effects, like Inca blanket patterns on tailoring, seemed on the runway to push the theme too far. Yet the Givenchy look emerged as tautly tailored, with an elegant nobility, or soft and graceful, as models walked a rough floor like llamas loping across those Peruvian plains.
Shocking pink might be considered, as in India, the navy blue of Peru, but it screamed out in the context of Tisci's venue: an austerely beautiful former convent. However, the clothes were gentle, as in a sari-shaped asymmetric dress or another with a gaucho cape flaring at its back.
Making a coherent collection with decisive daywear, credible cocktail clothes and long gowns is not so simple now that fashion is in flux. But Givenchy offered all that without the banal rhythm, as long jersey dresses suggested the nonchalance of day into night, evening dresses made of strands of silk had a swaying sense of movement and sheer lace dresses were shown under tailored coats.
Tisci - like several predecessors - was thrown to the lions at Givenchy. But he showed in this collection that he was learning how to joust with this proud and powerful couture beast and make clothes relevant to the 21st century.
Riccardo Tisci takes his collection to the high heartland of Peru
By Suzy Menkes
Published: July 2, 2008
PARIS: It is dark and elusive, but the raw romanticism of Riccardo Tisci is starting to create a powerful, modern image for the house of Givenchy.
For the winter season, the designer took his collection into the high heartland of Peru, where he created a landscape of Machu Picchu colors like tobacco brown and stony beige. Hefty cuffed shorts, leather bomber jackets, ethnic patterned alpaca sweaters and gaucho boots with a chap at the front seemed a long way from the sophistication of the City of Light.
Yet, take away the ethnic focus and there were intriguing things going on, especially in the fabrics. Tisci's idea of a waxed leather coat lined with alpaca fur was only the start of this mountain trail through high and low materials, as he melded denim, silk jersey, chinchilla and cashmere. The melange could be deciphered only from the program notes, so that some effects, like Inca blanket patterns on tailoring, seemed on the runway to push the theme too far. Yet the Givenchy look emerged as tautly tailored, with an elegant nobility, or soft and graceful, as models walked a rough floor like llamas loping across those Peruvian plains.
Shocking pink might be considered, as in India, the navy blue of Peru, but it screamed out in the context of Tisci's venue: an austerely beautiful former convent. However, the clothes were gentle, as in a sari-shaped asymmetric dress or another with a gaucho cape flaring at its back.
Making a coherent collection with decisive daywear, credible cocktail clothes and long gowns is not so simple now that fashion is in flux. But Givenchy offered all that without the banal rhythm, as long jersey dresses suggested the nonchalance of day into night, evening dresses made of strands of silk had a swaying sense of movement and sheer lace dresses were shown under tailored coats.
Tisci - like several predecessors - was thrown to the lions at Givenchy. But he showed in this collection that he was learning how to joust with this proud and powerful couture beast and make clothes relevant to the 21st century.
miércoles, 2 de julio de 2008
Nuevo restaurante Peruano-Americano
New eatery touts Peruvian, U.S. foods
By Susan Gartner
“I was always drawn to the preparation of food,” said Lawren (“Lawrence without the c-e”) Williams. “My mom says some of her fondest memories of me are when I was real little and was always trying to create dishes. None of them were any good — I just liked the idea of preparing food!”Adding to his mother’s fondest memories will be the opening of her son’s new restaurant, Williams Eatery and Gathering Place, this week. The restaurant is located at the corner of Dayton and Corry Streets, the former site of the Gypsy Cafe.
Williams is a fourth-generation restaurateur, having learned the industry from his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather. He previously owned the Broad Street Grille in Fairborn but after selling his share to his partner, Williams set his sights on starting his own restaurant in Yellow Springs, a town that is near and dear to him.“I was born and raised in Fairborn,” he said in an interview while construction of Williams Eatery was still underway, “but I’ve been coming to Yellow Springs since I was a little guy. I remember when I turned 14 and got a moped. I used to take the back roads into Yellow Springs and hang out here all the time. I’ve always been a fan of this area. I’m real excited about being a part of the community.”
Williams Eatery and Gathering Place will be a family-style restaurant serving a menu that is half American and half Peruvian. “Just like my family!” Williams laughed.Williams met his wife, Diana (pronounced Deana), when he was opening a restaurant for a corporate chain in Cincinnati. He fell in love with her immediately and hired her to work at the restaurant. Originally from Ica, Peru, Diana would bring him traditional foods she had prepared. In short order, Williams became hooked — emotionally and gastronomically.“The first time I had carapulcra limeña [a featured item on the menu], I was like ‘Wow,’” said Williams. “It’s roasted pork and potatoes and this peanut sauce all mixed together.” Then she made him chicha morada, a Peruvian drink made with purple corn, cinnamon, cloves, lime and pineapple juice — also on the menu.
Other traditional Peruvian entrees include cebiche (marinated fish, shrimp, and calamari prepared in lime juice and aji peppers) and tallarines verdes with bistek (a fresh spinach and basil pesto sauce served over noodles and topped with a very thin but large cut of choice steak). Pasta vegetariana features a traditional sauce of tomato, onion, carrots, garlic, and tuco spice.Both cultures are equally represented on the menu. There will be seasonal foods, daily specials, and American classics such as “great-hot-smokin’-fall-off-the-bone ribs.” What won’t appear on the menu is liquor.“We want to be family-driven,” said Williams, father of two small children. “We want to support the schools and the kids. One of the things we did at the Broad Street Grille was work with the high school soccer team. We fed the team once a week.” He hopes to be similarly involved in Yellow Springs.
As a testament to his commitment to the community, Williams invested time, labor, and money renovating the lower half of the building that houses his new restaurant. He also brought the “greenhouse” up to code, replacing floors, windows, ceiling, and cedar siding. His landlady, Drenko Pureval, who also owns the Tibet Bazaar gift shop in King’s Yard, purchased the building in December 2006. Pureval is thrilled with her new tenant’s efforts and hopes the restaurant will bring new life to that section of the downtown area.“Everyone in the village has been really great trying to move this process along,” Williams said. “Drenko is awesome. She’s been a real help getting things going with all the renovations.”Although the name of the establishment may be a mouthful, Williams gave it a lot of thought. “I have so much pride in my family,” he said. “But all the times we’ve opened a restaurant it’s never been named after us. I always tell my cooks and the people who work for me, ‘You should want to serve a plate of food where if you had to sign your name on the plate as it went out of the kitchen, you would be okay with that.’ There’s nothing more important than your name, your family. It’s time to live up to that.”
Contact: sgartner@ysnews.com
By Susan Gartner
“I was always drawn to the preparation of food,” said Lawren (“Lawrence without the c-e”) Williams. “My mom says some of her fondest memories of me are when I was real little and was always trying to create dishes. None of them were any good — I just liked the idea of preparing food!”Adding to his mother’s fondest memories will be the opening of her son’s new restaurant, Williams Eatery and Gathering Place, this week. The restaurant is located at the corner of Dayton and Corry Streets, the former site of the Gypsy Cafe.
Williams is a fourth-generation restaurateur, having learned the industry from his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather. He previously owned the Broad Street Grille in Fairborn but after selling his share to his partner, Williams set his sights on starting his own restaurant in Yellow Springs, a town that is near and dear to him.“I was born and raised in Fairborn,” he said in an interview while construction of Williams Eatery was still underway, “but I’ve been coming to Yellow Springs since I was a little guy. I remember when I turned 14 and got a moped. I used to take the back roads into Yellow Springs and hang out here all the time. I’ve always been a fan of this area. I’m real excited about being a part of the community.”
Williams Eatery and Gathering Place will be a family-style restaurant serving a menu that is half American and half Peruvian. “Just like my family!” Williams laughed.Williams met his wife, Diana (pronounced Deana), when he was opening a restaurant for a corporate chain in Cincinnati. He fell in love with her immediately and hired her to work at the restaurant. Originally from Ica, Peru, Diana would bring him traditional foods she had prepared. In short order, Williams became hooked — emotionally and gastronomically.“The first time I had carapulcra limeña [a featured item on the menu], I was like ‘Wow,’” said Williams. “It’s roasted pork and potatoes and this peanut sauce all mixed together.” Then she made him chicha morada, a Peruvian drink made with purple corn, cinnamon, cloves, lime and pineapple juice — also on the menu.
Other traditional Peruvian entrees include cebiche (marinated fish, shrimp, and calamari prepared in lime juice and aji peppers) and tallarines verdes with bistek (a fresh spinach and basil pesto sauce served over noodles and topped with a very thin but large cut of choice steak). Pasta vegetariana features a traditional sauce of tomato, onion, carrots, garlic, and tuco spice.Both cultures are equally represented on the menu. There will be seasonal foods, daily specials, and American classics such as “great-hot-smokin’-fall-off-the-bone ribs.” What won’t appear on the menu is liquor.“We want to be family-driven,” said Williams, father of two small children. “We want to support the schools and the kids. One of the things we did at the Broad Street Grille was work with the high school soccer team. We fed the team once a week.” He hopes to be similarly involved in Yellow Springs.
As a testament to his commitment to the community, Williams invested time, labor, and money renovating the lower half of the building that houses his new restaurant. He also brought the “greenhouse” up to code, replacing floors, windows, ceiling, and cedar siding. His landlady, Drenko Pureval, who also owns the Tibet Bazaar gift shop in King’s Yard, purchased the building in December 2006. Pureval is thrilled with her new tenant’s efforts and hopes the restaurant will bring new life to that section of the downtown area.“Everyone in the village has been really great trying to move this process along,” Williams said. “Drenko is awesome. She’s been a real help getting things going with all the renovations.”Although the name of the establishment may be a mouthful, Williams gave it a lot of thought. “I have so much pride in my family,” he said. “But all the times we’ve opened a restaurant it’s never been named after us. I always tell my cooks and the people who work for me, ‘You should want to serve a plate of food where if you had to sign your name on the plate as it went out of the kitchen, you would be okay with that.’ There’s nothing more important than your name, your family. It’s time to live up to that.”
Contact: sgartner@ysnews.com
martes, 1 de julio de 2008
Halagan Camino Inca
The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is punishing, but worth it
Posted on Tue, Jul. 01, 2008
BY ERIN CHAN
Detroit Free Press
ON THE INCA TRAIL, Peru -- It can no longer be helped. The wetness creeps into my eyes like the condensation that shrouded our tent this morning.
Deep in the Peruvian Andes, several hundred yards from where I stand, a lump of mountain known as Waynupicchu shoots up like an inverted elbow. At its base lie perfectly carved stone triangles, parts of temples on terraces built by the legendary Incas.
It all looks like the classic pictures I had gazed at so many times in tour books and childhood encyclopedias.
It all looks flawless.
As wisps of clouds waft over the storied site, the exhilarating suffering of the past four days hurtles at me, inciting the tears, and this, its ultimate reward, becomes real.
I have made it, on foot, to Machu Picchu.
I have made it, indeed, but I have made it hobbling.
When I walk, I look nothing like the tourists who start coming off buses two hours later, fresh from a hotel room in Aguas Calientes or Cusco (also known as Cuzco). Unlike them, I limp, leaning desperately on a metal walking pole. And I probably smell much worse, too.
Hiking is a masochistic way to reach Machu Picchu, especially if the last time you remember hiking you were a 9-year-old at summer camp. Taking the bus up a series of switchbacks is a fine way to see the historic site, which after a global vote, was chosen last year as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.
But there is something unparalleled about traversing the 30-kilometer (18.6-mile) classic Inca Trail to the most sacred site of an extraordinary civilization.
Aside from the stone palaces and fortresses and temples to inspect along the way (impossible to access by bus or train), there arises a profound respect for the people who built such buildings, blending them with nature, laying a pathway of stones for miles and miles.
I have barely made it over the up-and-down terrain in hiking boots. The Incas ran it in sandals.
Actually, I barely made it at all.
To get to the start of the classic Inca Trail route, at the 82-kilometer marker, almost everyone has to pass through Cusco, the one-time capital of the Incas and now a sprawling city home to thousands of their descendants.
To get to Cusco, almost all international travelers must pass through Lima, the capital of Peru. That means going from about 350 feet above sea level to more than 10,000 feet. The highest point of the classic Inca Trail hike is at 13,826 feet.
It makes sense, then, that the recommended stay in Cusco before embarking on the trail is three to seven days, to let your body adapt to the altitude.
I had allowed just one day.
And then, because of a freak snowstorm in Chicago, I had no days.
This was not only unkind to my lungs. It put my entire vision of following the footsteps of the Incas in jeopardy.
You see, in the last few years, getting on the Inca Trail became about as easy as qualifying for the Boston Marathon. In the past, thousands more could traverse the trail, but when the Peruvian government realized the pathway was starting to deteriorate into a highway of trash and erosion from overuse, it limited the number of tourists who could hike on the trail to 200 each day.
If I didn't start on the specific day for which I had a permit, I wasn't going at all. Permits had been claimed for the next five months.
Fortunately for me, you cannot travel the trail alone. You must go with a group that has a licensed guide. I chose SAS Travel Peru, which departs on the four-day classic trail daily, and after several international phone calls, it arranged for me to take a taxi (the others had taken a bus) to the 82-kilometer marker start.
When I step out of the airport in Cusco, the altitude makes my lungs feel like balloons that refuse to inflate.
I feel better as I chat with Jose, my taxi driver, and then even better after I doze off. When I awake, Jose has already driven deep into el valle sagrado, the Sacred Valley, fertile with Incan sites .
When I arrive at Km 82, I find the other members of my group -- from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Malta and the United States. Half have quit their jobs so they can travel the world. We are all in our mid-20s.
Our guides, Saul Palma and Gilberth Laurel, split up so one always hikes in front and one behind, assuring us we will not go wandering off, dazed and lost in the Andes Mountains.
A large wooden sign we approach reads ''Camino Inka-Inka Trail'' -- a mesh of Quechua (the language of the Incas), Spanish and English -- and gives the start of the trail a kind of official feel. We are also processed through a small checkpoint hut where we have our passports stamped with ``Control Piskakucho.''
To reach the trail, we cross a bridge suspended over the rolling Urubamba River, the lifeline of the Incas. The river's sweeping current and the mountains that rise around gives a glimpse of the enormity of the hike.
And a picture of its beauty.
The hike, especially in the beginning, feels serene and not at all isolated.
Every few tenths of a mile, we stop to let locals walk past with their donkeys. Several times, we stop for trotting mares and curious roosters. Once, we stop for a pig.
Within an hour of setting out, we spot Inca ruins. Even from several hundred yards away, the walls reveal sturdy and meticulous design. As a friendly rain falls, we reach the pre-Incan fort and village of Willkaraqay. Here we can actually touch the ancient stonework and peek through the windows.
The fort offers a stunning look at Llaqtapata, a major Incan town with step terraces for farming. A temple called Pulpituyoc with rounded walls matches the curve of its perch next to the Urubamba River, which slithers below like a white python.
You cannot hike the Inca Trail without being amazed by the porters, whom Saul requested we call chaskis, the name for Incan messengers. There are about two chaskis for every one of us. Each day, they carry the bulk of what we didn't want to tote, which usually means their load grows heavier as our legs grow sorer.
Always, the chaskis set up a tent for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks and our two-person tents for sleeping. Always, they cook -- scrumptious foods like pumpkin soup, avocados and chicken. In the mornings, they wake us with tea brewed from coca leaves.
Used by Incan nobility, coca leaves act as a remedy for altitude sickness and a stimulant, but because cocaine is extracted from them, don't pack them in your suitcase to take across the U.S. border.
As mornings begin between 4-5:30 a.m., coca tea becomes an ideal and necessary substitute for Starbucks mochas. It's pleasant to drink it at dawn with my tent unzipped, watching pink light peek through the mountains.
The most brutal day is the second, when we climb 4,000 feet in four hours to reach Warmiwanuska, or ''Dead Woman's Pass,'' which is how I feel. There is no denying soreness at this point, when the walking stick has become my third leg. By the third day, we no longer walk on dirt but on actual stones laid by the Incas.
Though it feels like trekking on an ancient Stairmaster, the constant ascents and descents never fail to reveal a spectacular view or a breathtaking Incan site. There is Runkuraqay, a watchtower shaped like a half moon. There is Sayaqmarka, whose many windows you sit in for a rest, and the intricate ruins of Phuyupatamarka, which has more curves than a Grand Prix track.
Rows upon rows of terraces used for agriculture rise up at Intipata and surround the majestic triangular-shaped walls of Winaywayna, or what our guide, Saul, calls ``the most beautiful Inca site.''
The stones lead us all the way to the Intipunku, the sun gate, which we power hike to on the fourth morning, in time to see the sun rising and shedding its first rays on Machu Picchu.
Sweaty and delighted, I teeter toward Machu Picchu, or ''old peak,'' avoiding two tan- and-white llamas that nearly slam into me along the way.
And then, 30 kilometers after I started walking, I am there, arriving at a place built in about 1450 by a meticulous, extraordinary people. The Incas would abandon it less than 100 years later, when smallpox and weapons from the Spaniards were ravaging their empire.
But the Spanish never found this city in the clouds.
It wasn't until 1911 that a foreigner, American explorer Hiram Bingham, who had the help of locals, first came upon the site while hiking.
Of course, I, too, find it on foot -- weary and amazed and still standing.
IF YOU GO
• Best times: The rainy season is just ending in April and the demand for permits hasn't peaked in May, so those are two great months to go. September and October are ideal, too, because the rainy season will not have started yet. Competition for permits is highest June-August. The trail is closed in February for maintenance.
• Permits: you will not get on the Inca Trail if you do not have a permit, and you likely will not get a permit if you do not book well ahead. If you're planning to hike in June, July or August, book your trip at least three to six months in advance. If you want to hike in other months, allow at least one to two months. Because you must go with a licensed guide, you will be booking your trip through a tour operator like SAS Travel Peru (www.sastravelperu.com) or Peru Treks (www.perutreks.com).
Check permit availability directly through www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/index.html.
• Cost: SAS Travel offers a 4-day, 3-night hike known as the Classic Inca Trail for $460. The price covers three meals a day plus snacks, a sleeping tent, a sleeping bag and trail fees.
Roundtrip shuttle flights from Lima to Cusco range from $50-$150.
INCA TRAIL BASICS
• Fitness: You should be able to perform 30 to 45 minutes of cardiovascular exercise (walking, jogging, or biking) four to five days a week. Because of the constant ascents and descents on the trail, it would be optimal to incorporate some hills into your runs and walks or work out on a Stairmaster.
• Packing: The trail can get quite hot (80 degrees or more) during the day and quite cool (40 degrees or less) at night, so be sure to pack for a variety of temperatures. Hiking boots are ideal, as is a walking pole with a rubber tip. If you're worried about hauling your backpack, you can hire a chaski (porter) starting for about $45 for the trip. Don't feel like a wimp if you do; 13 of the 14 in my group did.
• Alternative trails: Several tour operators also offer a two-day hike on the Inca Trail, as well as other routes to Machu Picchu that, though not as storied, are just as beautiful. For a sampling, check out the offerings from SAS Travel Peru at www.sastravelperu.com.
Posted on Tue, Jul. 01, 2008
BY ERIN CHAN
Detroit Free Press
ON THE INCA TRAIL, Peru -- It can no longer be helped. The wetness creeps into my eyes like the condensation that shrouded our tent this morning.
Deep in the Peruvian Andes, several hundred yards from where I stand, a lump of mountain known as Waynupicchu shoots up like an inverted elbow. At its base lie perfectly carved stone triangles, parts of temples on terraces built by the legendary Incas.
It all looks like the classic pictures I had gazed at so many times in tour books and childhood encyclopedias.
It all looks flawless.
As wisps of clouds waft over the storied site, the exhilarating suffering of the past four days hurtles at me, inciting the tears, and this, its ultimate reward, becomes real.
I have made it, on foot, to Machu Picchu.
I have made it, indeed, but I have made it hobbling.
When I walk, I look nothing like the tourists who start coming off buses two hours later, fresh from a hotel room in Aguas Calientes or Cusco (also known as Cuzco). Unlike them, I limp, leaning desperately on a metal walking pole. And I probably smell much worse, too.
Hiking is a masochistic way to reach Machu Picchu, especially if the last time you remember hiking you were a 9-year-old at summer camp. Taking the bus up a series of switchbacks is a fine way to see the historic site, which after a global vote, was chosen last year as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.
But there is something unparalleled about traversing the 30-kilometer (18.6-mile) classic Inca Trail to the most sacred site of an extraordinary civilization.
Aside from the stone palaces and fortresses and temples to inspect along the way (impossible to access by bus or train), there arises a profound respect for the people who built such buildings, blending them with nature, laying a pathway of stones for miles and miles.
I have barely made it over the up-and-down terrain in hiking boots. The Incas ran it in sandals.
Actually, I barely made it at all.
To get to the start of the classic Inca Trail route, at the 82-kilometer marker, almost everyone has to pass through Cusco, the one-time capital of the Incas and now a sprawling city home to thousands of their descendants.
To get to Cusco, almost all international travelers must pass through Lima, the capital of Peru. That means going from about 350 feet above sea level to more than 10,000 feet. The highest point of the classic Inca Trail hike is at 13,826 feet.
It makes sense, then, that the recommended stay in Cusco before embarking on the trail is three to seven days, to let your body adapt to the altitude.
I had allowed just one day.
And then, because of a freak snowstorm in Chicago, I had no days.
This was not only unkind to my lungs. It put my entire vision of following the footsteps of the Incas in jeopardy.
You see, in the last few years, getting on the Inca Trail became about as easy as qualifying for the Boston Marathon. In the past, thousands more could traverse the trail, but when the Peruvian government realized the pathway was starting to deteriorate into a highway of trash and erosion from overuse, it limited the number of tourists who could hike on the trail to 200 each day.
If I didn't start on the specific day for which I had a permit, I wasn't going at all. Permits had been claimed for the next five months.
Fortunately for me, you cannot travel the trail alone. You must go with a group that has a licensed guide. I chose SAS Travel Peru, which departs on the four-day classic trail daily, and after several international phone calls, it arranged for me to take a taxi (the others had taken a bus) to the 82-kilometer marker start.
When I step out of the airport in Cusco, the altitude makes my lungs feel like balloons that refuse to inflate.
I feel better as I chat with Jose, my taxi driver, and then even better after I doze off. When I awake, Jose has already driven deep into el valle sagrado, the Sacred Valley, fertile with Incan sites .
When I arrive at Km 82, I find the other members of my group -- from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Malta and the United States. Half have quit their jobs so they can travel the world. We are all in our mid-20s.
Our guides, Saul Palma and Gilberth Laurel, split up so one always hikes in front and one behind, assuring us we will not go wandering off, dazed and lost in the Andes Mountains.
A large wooden sign we approach reads ''Camino Inka-Inka Trail'' -- a mesh of Quechua (the language of the Incas), Spanish and English -- and gives the start of the trail a kind of official feel. We are also processed through a small checkpoint hut where we have our passports stamped with ``Control Piskakucho.''
To reach the trail, we cross a bridge suspended over the rolling Urubamba River, the lifeline of the Incas. The river's sweeping current and the mountains that rise around gives a glimpse of the enormity of the hike.
And a picture of its beauty.
The hike, especially in the beginning, feels serene and not at all isolated.
Every few tenths of a mile, we stop to let locals walk past with their donkeys. Several times, we stop for trotting mares and curious roosters. Once, we stop for a pig.
Within an hour of setting out, we spot Inca ruins. Even from several hundred yards away, the walls reveal sturdy and meticulous design. As a friendly rain falls, we reach the pre-Incan fort and village of Willkaraqay. Here we can actually touch the ancient stonework and peek through the windows.
The fort offers a stunning look at Llaqtapata, a major Incan town with step terraces for farming. A temple called Pulpituyoc with rounded walls matches the curve of its perch next to the Urubamba River, which slithers below like a white python.
You cannot hike the Inca Trail without being amazed by the porters, whom Saul requested we call chaskis, the name for Incan messengers. There are about two chaskis for every one of us. Each day, they carry the bulk of what we didn't want to tote, which usually means their load grows heavier as our legs grow sorer.
Always, the chaskis set up a tent for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks and our two-person tents for sleeping. Always, they cook -- scrumptious foods like pumpkin soup, avocados and chicken. In the mornings, they wake us with tea brewed from coca leaves.
Used by Incan nobility, coca leaves act as a remedy for altitude sickness and a stimulant, but because cocaine is extracted from them, don't pack them in your suitcase to take across the U.S. border.
As mornings begin between 4-5:30 a.m., coca tea becomes an ideal and necessary substitute for Starbucks mochas. It's pleasant to drink it at dawn with my tent unzipped, watching pink light peek through the mountains.
The most brutal day is the second, when we climb 4,000 feet in four hours to reach Warmiwanuska, or ''Dead Woman's Pass,'' which is how I feel. There is no denying soreness at this point, when the walking stick has become my third leg. By the third day, we no longer walk on dirt but on actual stones laid by the Incas.
Though it feels like trekking on an ancient Stairmaster, the constant ascents and descents never fail to reveal a spectacular view or a breathtaking Incan site. There is Runkuraqay, a watchtower shaped like a half moon. There is Sayaqmarka, whose many windows you sit in for a rest, and the intricate ruins of Phuyupatamarka, which has more curves than a Grand Prix track.
Rows upon rows of terraces used for agriculture rise up at Intipata and surround the majestic triangular-shaped walls of Winaywayna, or what our guide, Saul, calls ``the most beautiful Inca site.''
The stones lead us all the way to the Intipunku, the sun gate, which we power hike to on the fourth morning, in time to see the sun rising and shedding its first rays on Machu Picchu.
Sweaty and delighted, I teeter toward Machu Picchu, or ''old peak,'' avoiding two tan- and-white llamas that nearly slam into me along the way.
And then, 30 kilometers after I started walking, I am there, arriving at a place built in about 1450 by a meticulous, extraordinary people. The Incas would abandon it less than 100 years later, when smallpox and weapons from the Spaniards were ravaging their empire.
But the Spanish never found this city in the clouds.
It wasn't until 1911 that a foreigner, American explorer Hiram Bingham, who had the help of locals, first came upon the site while hiking.
Of course, I, too, find it on foot -- weary and amazed and still standing.
IF YOU GO
• Best times: The rainy season is just ending in April and the demand for permits hasn't peaked in May, so those are two great months to go. September and October are ideal, too, because the rainy season will not have started yet. Competition for permits is highest June-August. The trail is closed in February for maintenance.
• Permits: you will not get on the Inca Trail if you do not have a permit, and you likely will not get a permit if you do not book well ahead. If you're planning to hike in June, July or August, book your trip at least three to six months in advance. If you want to hike in other months, allow at least one to two months. Because you must go with a licensed guide, you will be booking your trip through a tour operator like SAS Travel Peru (www.sastravelperu.com) or Peru Treks (www.perutreks.com).
Check permit availability directly through www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/index.html.
• Cost: SAS Travel offers a 4-day, 3-night hike known as the Classic Inca Trail for $460. The price covers three meals a day plus snacks, a sleeping tent, a sleeping bag and trail fees.
Roundtrip shuttle flights from Lima to Cusco range from $50-$150.
INCA TRAIL BASICS
• Fitness: You should be able to perform 30 to 45 minutes of cardiovascular exercise (walking, jogging, or biking) four to five days a week. Because of the constant ascents and descents on the trail, it would be optimal to incorporate some hills into your runs and walks or work out on a Stairmaster.
• Packing: The trail can get quite hot (80 degrees or more) during the day and quite cool (40 degrees or less) at night, so be sure to pack for a variety of temperatures. Hiking boots are ideal, as is a walking pole with a rubber tip. If you're worried about hauling your backpack, you can hire a chaski (porter) starting for about $45 for the trip. Don't feel like a wimp if you do; 13 of the 14 in my group did.
• Alternative trails: Several tour operators also offer a two-day hike on the Inca Trail, as well as other routes to Machu Picchu that, though not as storied, are just as beautiful. For a sampling, check out the offerings from SAS Travel Peru at www.sastravelperu.com.
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