The grown-up gapper: On Lake Titicaca
Backpack stuffed with an assortment of fleeces and wool clothing, our gapper goes island hopping on Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake.
By Ruth Holliday
Last Updated: 4:10PM BST 02 Oct 2008
Peru does cold like few places on earth. At night, temperatures at altitude drop below zero - yet after eight weeks here I am yet to spot any kind of indoor heating system.
In a bid to educate us yet further on the extremes of night-time chilliness, our Peru Experience co-ordinators send us for a four-day stay on Lake Titicaca. The world's highest navigable lake is home to a clutch of hardy tribes whose way of life has remained largely unchanged for millennia. For two nights we are to be guests in their unheated and isolated homes.
First we have a comfortable evening in the friendly lakeside town of Puno, staying in the relative luxury of the Camino Real hotel. Puno is notably unspectacular; most of its buildings are constructed from a brown mud brick, many streets are unpaved and traffic consists mainly of bicycles and tuk-tuk-style motorbike taxis.
In sparkling contrast to the town's dull muddiness is the emerald water of the lake. Titicaca is one of the largest on earth at 110 miles long by 38 miles wide. It’s a vast and shimmering border between Peru and its mountainous neighbour, Bolivia.
Backpacks stuffed with an assortment of fleece and wool clothing, we set out just after dawn to begin our first day's island hopping, crammed aboard an uncomfortable, diesel-saturated boat with around 20 other tourists.
Half an hour later we stop to meet the Uros, a unique community living on man-made reed islands, anchored to the lake-bed by a system of ropes. The islanders are thought to have fled dry land to escape war and famine around three thousand years ago. Ever since they have been replenishing and replacing their floating communities, living on the lake's fish stocks, and more recently, on the fascination of visiting tourists.
On arrival we are greeted with a round of singing by a group of local women, then shown how the islands are made - with reed blocks, reed matting, and yet more reeds strewn on top for good measure. Uros homes are made of reeds, as is the furniture inside, reeds are burned (very carefully) for firewood, and every night the locals sit down to a side order of reed roots with their fish supper.
We are given the chance to look inside the houses, offered a selection of reed-crafts for sale, and then taken from one tiny island to the next on a reed boat woven in the shape of a dragon.
The Uros islands may be an anthropological curiosity, but they are also a well-honed tourist money-spinner. We climb back aboard our non-reed boat feeling we are yet to see anything particularly untouched or authentic.
Amantani is the next stop, an uncomfortable three hours away. From the port we have to climb an inordinate distance up the island's steep mountainside - weighed down as we are with precautionary quantities of warm clothing. At the top, we are introduced to the host families who will accommodate us that night. For 25 soles (around £5) they will provide lunch, dinner and breakfast and give us some form of shelter from the perishing cold.
Our hostess is called Olga - she greets us with one hand while continuing to spin her bobbin of alpaca wool with the other. In rural Peru, spinning is an all-day job. She is dressed in the brightly coloured, voluminous skirts particular to the island, and sets off ahead of us with the speed and stamina of a stampeding llama. We puff and pant after her, and are shown to a simple three-bedded room off a mud-brick courtyard.
Olga shares her tiny home with a husband and three young children. Like other Titicaca islanders in the Altiplano area, they subsist on a largely vegetarian diet. By vegetarian, what I actually mean is potatoes - little else will grow on these exposed and windswept hills. Hence the lunch she proudly serves us is a potato and quinoa (Peruvian grain) soup, followed by a main course of worm-riddled potatoes devoid of sauce, spice or anything else to dilute their floury spudiness. We ask for salt and politely eat what we can, trying to ignore the crunchy bits.
At 4pm we are summoned to a football game in the community's main square - the locals versus the "internationals". As tourists visit the island several times a month, there is a certain spontaneity lacking among the local team. But being South American, they win nevertheless.
Our guide then assembles the fitter members of the group for a one-hour hike to the island's summit to watch the sunset over the lake. We arrive at the top just as the temperature begins to plummet, the sun dipping over the horizon like an immense, glowing egg yolk. The view is extraordinary, the surrounding islands transfigured by the twilight and shrouded in purple mist.
We are encouraged to withstand the cold a little longer to watch the stars come out. Our host families have provided us with a comic assortment of woolly hats for the purpose, complete with knitted ear flaps and colorful pom-poms. We huddle together in the shelter of a craggy rock face and see first Venus, then Mars, then Alpha Centauri twinkle into view. After half an hour or so the biting wind forces us back down to the village, and by the time we arrive the sky is alight with the most dazzling spectacle. Thousands upon thousands of stars, each one incandescent, the Milky Way swirling through their midst in glorious clarity.
But there is little time for stargazing. There is a “special” party to be held for the tourists immediately after our dinner time ration of potatoes. We are dressed in traditional costume for this purpose; a musty but impressive selection of locally woven and embroidered attire. Unfortunately we are too exhausted by hiking and excess carbohydrates to really enjoy it. What is more disconcerting is the bored expressions of the locals - evidently forced to attend these contrived tourist-pleasers. We stay for a couple of reels, then retire to shiver our way through the night under a hundredweight of itchy alpaca blankets.
As the next day starts - mercilessly early - a sense of grimness pervades the group. All are suffering a touch of tourist fatigue. We each confess we would rather forego our second night on the islands for a hot shower and a flushing toilet back in Puno.
We pack up and trudge back to the boat, hoping for better luck at our next stop - Taquile.
As it turns out, this gorgeous little island is enough to lift the most jaded of spirits. Our guide directs the boat to a small harbour at the back of the island, sparing us the 500 steps up from the main port which the locals nickname “the tourist killer”.
Nevertheless, we face a substantial climb to the central square - the Plaza de Armas. But the walk is picturesque - a snaking pathway through eucalyptus-garnished hills, overlooking the glittering deep blue of the lake. The landscape here is reminiscent of the Mediterranean, with rocky shores sloping down to inviting bays and hidden beaches.
After a decent lunch of local trout - and potatoes - we meet our second night's host - Silvano. It is his incredible hospitality that really makes this trip. His home is an idyllic farmhouse, tucked away in a secluded part of the island. The courtyard is lined with lime vines and terracotta pots filled with pink flowers. The rooms we are shown to are decked with multi-coloured alpaca rugs and hangings. Our group is elated.
Silvano takes us on a tour of the island, shows us local weaving techniques, explains the island's intricate dress codes and marital systems, shows us how to make organic shampoo from an indigenous plant - and even feeds us protein in the form of omelettes.
Yes, the night is bitterly cold, but the island is so charming and the hospitality so immense that by next morning none of us wants to leave - hot shower or no hot shower. Taquile is a jewel on Titicaca with many of its communities clinging faithfully to a social and agricultural system that pre-dates the Incas.
Silvano can take up to eight people on long or short breaks (
silvano.taquile@yahoo.es). I defy even the grumpiest, most tour-weary traveller not to feel buoyed by a night or two as his guest.
Link:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hubs/gapyear/3122020/The-grown-up-gapper-On-Lake-Titicaca.html